IF the sidewalks of the Upper East Side seem deserted this week, blame it on couture.
In Paris, the fall 2001 haute couture collections are being presented to an impossibly well-appointed audience of New York society, European royals, Middle Eastern princesses and Tinseltown types who willingly pay $20,000 for a single piece of clothing.
But this year, there’s a new generation of couture buyers.
Young New York socialites like Tori Burch, Gigi Mortimer, Serena Boardman, Tori Burch, Rena Sindi, Jennifer Creel and Cornelia Guest are popping up on the front lines in Paris next to faces such as Nan Kempner and Deda Blair.
Heath Ledger, Kevin Spacey and Naomi Campbell (together!), Christina Ricci and Puff Daddy even took in shows.
“Young people are responding to the fact that there are young-minded design talents at couture level that are producing things that are appropriate for them,” Hamish Bowles, Vogue magazine’s European editor at large, said between shows.
In this flagging economy, it’s mind-boggling that anyone is buying couture -the ultimate in high fashion and high prices.
Unlike the ready-to-wear shows held biannually in New York, the couture shows spotlight one-of-a-kind garments.
Each is tailor-made to the exact measurements of clients, who often have to make several transoceanic flights for fittings to make sure their clothing fits.
Long-time couture customers -currently, there are only about 200 in the world -keep mannequins in their exact sizes at their favorite fashion houses.
Clients can expect to pay $15,000 to $20,000 for a suit and about $25,000 for a cocktail dress. Evening gowns cost $40,000 to $60,000 or more.
It takes about 100 hours to complete an average couture garment, but one can take up to 12,000 hours to complete.
Since only a few thousand women in the world can afford to buy new couture wardrobes each season, couture houses lose a lot of money -several hundred thousand dollars each season -on these shows.
But couture shows aren’t about making money. That’s why Chanel, Yves St. Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacroix have accessories, fragrance and cosmetics lines.
Couture shows are “like fashion laboratories -and are the only legitimate place left for designers to be creative,” says Tiffany Dubin, founder and former head of Sotheby’s Fashion Department.
“With couture, the clothes aren’t judged on how well they sell. The houses don’t need to make money with them. Hopefully, they have enough licensees for that.”
HAUTE HAND-ME-DOWNS
VINTAGE couture collector Tiffany Dubin says finding second-hand couture in New York City isn’t hard -if you know where to look.
Besides Web sites like Sothebys.com and upscale vintage shops such as Cherry on Orchard Street, Dubin suggests Upper East Side thrift stores -especially ones that donate to charities or groups wealthy women support.
Chances are, you’ll need to make alterations. “Because it’s custom-made for each client, true couture is supposed to fit like a second skin,” she explains. Here are some hunting grounds:
Cancer Care Thrift Shop, 1480 Third Ave., between 83rd and 84th streets, (212) 879-9878.
Irvington Institute Thrift Shop, 1534 Second Ave., near 80th Street, (212) 879-4555.
Memorial Sloan-Kettering Thrift Shop, 1440 Third Ave., near 81st Street, (212) 535-1250.
Spence-Chapin Thrift Shop, 1430 Third Ave., between 81st and 82nd streets, (212) 737-8448.