CAFE SPICE EXPRESS [ 1/2]
GRAND CENTRAL TERMINAL DINING CONCOURSE (646) 227-1300
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DAWAT begat Cafe Spice, which begat Cafe Spice Express. And the word was pretty good.
The youngest little Indian in the family – a quick-serve counter in the Grand Central Terminal Dining Concourse – is also the least expensive. Nothing’s more than $10.
It’s doubtful that actress/cookbook author Madhur Jaffrey is consulting with this kitchen as she does with granddaddy Dawat. And at these prices, you won’t see the elders’ ambiance or presentation. But a healthy respect for quality seems to be in the gene pool.
Samosas start things off with a bang. Three pouches of tender, tawny pastry cradling ground lamb and peas have a neat little heat kick ($4). The cumin-scented potato cakes called aloo tikki are equally engaging ($3).
You may have a short wait for some things to be prepared, such as the rice dish vegetable biryani ($7). I would have liked fluffier basmati, but had no complaint with the garden’s ample representation. It was just spicy enough to have me reaching for my Kleenex.
As tandooris go, this one with chicken is juicy and fine ($8). The tender, boneless lamb vindaloo is a brow-mopping pleasure, and the basmati rice side that comes with everything makes up for the weary lettuce accompaniment.
Goan vegetable curry ($7) was an underseasoned disappointment, though, as were the plastic-tasting tamarind sauce and thin raita. Luckily, a tongue-tingling roomali roll ($8) – chicken tikka and peppers wrapped in a crepe – was so luscious, it didn’t need sauces.
There’s pleasant service and Taj Mahal beer here, but no dessert. For that, the Little Pie Company and Custard Beach are mere steps away.