One of the great chefs of Europe has killed himself after his three-star eatery – known for its frog’s legs in parsley and artichoke ragout – was downgraded by a top restaurant guide.
Bernard Loiseau – whose Cote d’Or restaurant in Burgundy was one of the world’s finest – was found dead at his country home on Monday with a hunting rifle by his side.
Loiseau’s death came after the renowned GaultMillau guide downgraded him from 19 points – out of a possible 20 – to 17.
“Franco-foodies” told The Post that Loiseau, 52, an haute cuisine innovator whose culinary company was listed on the French stock exchange, may have lost his edge.
“Some critics thought he was in a rut, maybe spending more time doing business than in the kitchen,” said “Burgundy Stars” author William Echikson, who once spent a year in Loiseau’s kitchen while writing a book about the chef.
“This was a down moment. He had been warned that he might lose a star. Michelin said his menu was getting stale and that he should innovate.”
Loiseau’s restaurateur friend Paul Bocuse immediately pointed the finger at critics.
“I think GaultMillau killed him,” said Bocuse. “When you are leader of the pack and all of a sudden they cut you down . . . It hit him hard.”
Loiseau’s apparent suicide shocked France, plunged the gastronomic world into mourning and raised a storm of condemnation from fellow chefs, who blamed all-powerful food arbiters for pushing the celebrated chef to despair.
“If I lose a star, I’ll kill myself,” Loiseau was quoted as saying by fellow chef Jacques Lameloise.
Manhattan chef Daniel Boulud told The Post that Loiseau was probably at “a very, very down moment . . . The fear of losing a star was certainly a big concern. But I believe there could be something more to it.”
Jean-Georges Vongerichten – of Manhattan’s Jean-Georges restaurant – said he doubted Loiseau killed himself “just for losing two points and getting a warning from Michelin. I mean, he left three kids and a wife behind.”
COTE d’OR
Chef Bernard Loiseau
2002 rating: 19/20
2003 rating: 17/10
Source: GaultMillau restaurant guide