BETWEEN Thanksgiving and New Year’s, the question I hear from every friend and relative coming to town is:
“Where should I take my kids/mother/crisis counselor for a great New York dining experience, rich in culinary thrills, in a room full of holiday joy and frequented by Gwyneth Paltrow, all for the price of breakfast at Arby’s?”
Well, this time of year, when an occupation army of tree-gazing tourists tests the most poised establishments, I’d skip all restaurants in the shopping/sightseeing zone that snakes like a conga line from Times Square to Rockefeller Center.
The Rock Center Christmas tree is convenient to the likes of the Sea Grill, “21,” Del Frisco’s, Wu Liang Ye, Sushiden, Shaan, Ruby Foo’s and Citarella, which are all fine places to eat the rest of the year.
In December, however, their composure is shattered by an invasion of “heartland” folk who snub our customs, like the one forbidding children from spewing molten chocolate cake in your lap.
The strain takes its toll. I’ve never had a bad meal at Tuscan Square – except for lunch a few days before last Christmas.
I’ve never seen crack JUdson Grill brought to an overbooked standstill – except at dinner during tree-lighting week a few years back.
Friends smart enough to know better have chosen tourist haunts like Tavern on the Green, the Rainbow Grill or Planet Hollywood because “Mom/Junior wanted to go see it.”
Tell Mom or the kids to get over it. And wake me up on Jan. 2.
In the meantime, these are my suggestions for visitors coming to town – chosen for good food, festive atmospheres, all a safe distance from the tree but not too far downtown.
Don’t think of going without a reservation – and avoid all restaurants on New Year’s Eve.
1. Tamarind (41-43 E. 22nd St., [212] 674-7400) My hands-down favorite Indian restaurant, at its best with seafood and spices.
2. Terrance Brennan’s Seafood & Chop House (565 Lexington Ave., between 50th and 51st streets, [212] 715-2400) Steak and fabulous fish in an elegant setting. Cozier and less noisy than most steak joints.
3. Trattoria Dell’ Arte (900 Seventh Ave., between 56th and 57th streets, [212] 245-9800) Touristy but respectable Italian brasserie that knows how to handle a crowd.
4. Artisanal (2 Park Ave., entrance on 32nd Street west of the avenue, [212] 725-8585) Cheese-and-fondue heaven, in a smart brasserie space made for partying.
5. Gabriel’s (11 W. 60th St., [212] 956-4600) Underrated northern Italian cooking in the welcoming glow of warm wood. Good pasta and the spiciest goat in town.
6. Le Colonial (149 E. 57th St., [212] 752-0808) Vietnamese and southeast Asian cuisine in a suitably exotic setting. A great escape from shopping mayhem.
7. Bellini (208 E. 52nd St., [212] 308-0830) Cheerful setting for reasonably-priced Italian dishes.
8. Payard Bistro (1032 Lexington Ave., between 73d and 74th streets, [212] 717-5252) Famous for pastries, it’s also home to first-rate modern French cooking in Parisian setting.
9. DB Bistro Moderne (55 W. 44th St., [212] 391-2400) Daniel Boulud’s gift to the neighborhood. Ignore the $59 truffle burger and concentrate on first-rate American-French dishes in two vibrant rooms.
10. Shun Lee Palace (155 E. 55th St., [212] 371-8844) Luxurious pan-Chinese favorite with fanciful décor that’s just the thing when you’re fed up with holly and “Silver Bells.”
11. Keens Steakhouse (72 W. 36th St., [212] 947-3636) Awesome mutton chop served in a room that feels like it’s still 1885. Can be noisy.
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