Diesel owner Renzo Rosso and creative director Wilbert Das are singing the blues… and some Nirvana. And we’re totally sipping the Kool-Aid.
To coincide with the opening of the brand’s new 3-story, 20,000 square foot Fifth Avenue superstore (in the old Gucci space, thank you very much), the Italian brand sent leather, wool, tweed and silk down the runway against a backdrop of a jazz quartet jamming to Miles Davis and “Smells Like Teen Spirit.”
Once known for denim and tight logo tees, Diesel reinvented itself with Diesel Black Gold, a marriage of the brand’s blue jeans appeal with its rough and tumble leather, studs, buckles and rivets fantasy. This season’s collection – only the third since the label’s inception – twisted the 1930s corset, tuxedo, evening dress, cane-wielding vibe with a little bit of grunge.
Highlights included my first Carine Roitfeld and Nicole Richie sightings – the only time they will ever appear in the same sentence – and the Japanese denim harem pants, layered asymmetrical zip cardigans over v-neck tees, patched gray leggings and ankle booties and jumpers with sewn on leather bustier fronts. Jumpsuits still ruled the runway for Diesel and we can’t say we’re not happy about that – shorty short rompers and denim jumpsuits are always a high note for the brand.
And while we could have used a little more leather – call us fetishists, we don’t care – we’ll wait for the soft spring stuff come September.