Ocean City, Md., is only four hours south of Midtown Manhattan by car. But it probably seemed much further until Hurricane Sandy altered many an Atlantic beach holiday plan and made water-lovers look beyond the Jersey Shore. Or maybe it was Ocean City’s “Rodney the Lifeguard” TV commercials, with tanned, toned Rodney rescuing people from boredom, that really helped raise awareness of this beach town.
Either way, conversations with local bartenders, tram operators and other tourist-business types, plus careful inspection of license plates, lead us to conclude that this 10-mile stretch of coastline is more popular than ever with New Yorkers.
It’s easy to see why. The wide, nearly rock-less beaches are clean and free (open 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.). There are designated surf areas (two locations, varies daily), and surf-casting is allowed as long as you’re 50 feet from anyone. That’s not happening midday at the bustling south end of the city, home to the boardwalk, the 489-foot pier and most of the action. For space, try the considerably chiller northern half.
That said, you did not just drive past the state of New Jersey to entirely avoid the boardwalk area. Sure, there are moments of fluorescent hot pants and temporary tattoos, screaming fast boat rides and gull-squawking tram horns, but it’s totally part of the fun. Check out ococean.com for outdoor movies, concerts, and other events.
There’s something for everyone — just bring sunscreen!
GET ON BOARD
This April, phase two reconstruction of the not-quite-3-mile-long boardwalk was complete, rendering it completely smooth and clean and stable enough for heavy emergency vehicles from end to end. You’ll surely walk at least part of it while you’re in town, and maybe you’ll ride the Boardwalk Tram which goes from the Inlet (S. 1st St.) to 27th Street in about 30 minutes, though you can hop on or off anywhere you wish: it’s $3 each for a hop-on, or $6 for an all-day-pass. But the most fun happens before 11 a.m. (until Oct. 1 when time restriction is lifted) when bikes are allowed. Shops like 27th St Bicycle Rentals, from $6/hour, open at 6 a.m (on the Boardwalk at 27th St., 410-289-6022).
SNACK ATTACK
There’s no snack like a boardwalk snack. These three are as old as your grandparents and found at various locations (primarily the south end). Made daily on premise since 1910, Salt Water Taffy at Dolle’s (dolles.com), from $3.77, is a sweet, bite-size way to connect with the boardwalk’s past. Thrasher’s (thrashersfrenchfries.com) makes boardwalk fries as they should always be, and have been since 1929: Cooked in peanut oil; no ketchup; no trans fat, from $4.75. Popcorn is the thing at Fisher’s (fisherspopcorn.com). Operating since 1937, they coat their crunchy treat with caramel (and peanuts), white cheddar or Old Bay, from $2.40.
CHUGS AND KISSES
Four-ten is the local Ocean City area code, and the name of the refreshing Kölsch-style ale (think lager) served at 3-month-old Shorebilly for $6. They do some brewing here, too (super-small-batch amber, brown, IPA, stout) and plan to be open all winter. When the sun is shining, the 40-person “deck” on the boardwalk is the place to sit, and the six-stool indoor bar (top made of boardwalk boards) is great for a moment of shade (on the boardwalk @ 10th St., 443-373-1224, shorebillybeer.com).
CLAW YOUR WAY BACK
Open 11 a.m.-2 a.m., seven days, year-round, the Crab Bag is the place to satisfy your craving for the state crustacean: the blue crab. It’s also the best place to meet a happy local to teach you how to eat them. These folks have been doing it since birth, each with their own method of mallet use (or avoidance), knife (or fork) use, twisting and cracking. No matter who your guide is (they’re all more efficient than you), the main theme is to take your time, sit back, sip your beer and chat up your family and friends. Oh, and as the summer cools into fall, the crabs are best. A heavy crab is a real score. All-you-can-eat hot steamed crabs with fries, coleslaw and corn, $32.95 (13005 Coastal Hwy., 410-250-3337, thecrabbag.com).
DELI DELIGHTS
Serving challah French toast, $6.95, the sweetest latkes you may ever have, $4.25 for two, and sandwiches superior to anything you’ll find closer to the sand, Rosenfeld’s opened in April and will remain so year-round. Sit in for a Reuben, $11.95, and take-out the likes of Papa Joe’s pastrami and corned beef sandwich, $10.45 — pairs well with those Thrasher’s fries (6301 Coastal Hwy., 410-520-0283, rosenfeldsjewishdeli.com).
SUNSET BEACH
Facing the bay (that’s west), Fager’s offers many sunset-viewing options, from the upstairs fine dining room, to the expansive deck, to the sand-floored “beach,” to the windows surrounding the main bar. And nothing makes a sunset prettier than an Ocean City classic Orange Crush (fresh OJ, triple-sec, orange-flavored vodka, sprite, in a pint glass), $8.50. Most summer nights they sell about 1,000 of them (201 60th St., 855-432-4377, fagers.com).
CONE HEADS
There are a few Dumser’s locations in Ocean City, but the best one for your late-night ice cream craving is the Drive-In at 49th Street. The front deck — a real scene when the nearby bars close — is open until 3 a.m. on weekends; 1 a.m. Sunday-Thursday. Outstanding homemade ice-cream by the scoop in cones or cups from $3.28. Get there before midnight for an air-conditioned seat inside (4901 Coastal Hwy., 410-524-1588, beach-net.com/dumsers).
SLEEP
Lodging options (size, space and location) are endless. Cottages sit next to high-rise condos, indie motels and every chain hotel you can imagine, nearly all prepared for extended stays. We like the situation and amenities (ocean-facing pool decks!) at the Holiday Inn Hotel & Suites (from $242, 1700 Atlantic Ave., 866-627-8483, ocsuites.com) and the Hilton (from $199; 3200 Baltimore Ave., 866-729-3200, oceancityhilton.com).