While many may identify the number 21 as the threshold into adulthood, fashion designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua distinguishes the prominent digits as his date of birth, his lucky number and the name for his most recent designer collection — N°21.
In 2010, the eminent designer departed his eponymous brand to debut N°21, a new venture and a fresh conceptual line, with a toneddown approach to luxury threads. Fall 2014 marks the arrival of his first men’s collection.
“It was the right time to launch,” says the 51-year-old designer. “The market was insistently asking for it. N°21 proposes a real wardrobe.”
Dell’Acqua presented a collection of elegant and utterly wearable basics. Staples like cable-knit sweaters and overcoats were given subtle luxe upgrades in the highest- quality materials. But there were some outré curveballs, like a ramfur peacoat and neoprene sweatshirts, that added the wow factor.
“The collection is expressly for a fashion-alert individual very much aware of his own style identity,” says Dell’Acqua. “Prints draw inspiration from decorative arts and classic upholstery fabrics, such as failles and toile de jouy cotton poplins, all for a hunting scene.” He adds, “I used lace, but in a masculine way. It is doubled to give the material a much stronger feeling.”
Dell’Acqua’s notable design career began at 23 when he was named creative director of Italian label Genny. This was followed by stints at esteemed fashion houses La Perla, Malo and Brioni, after which he launched his namesake label in 1996. In 2013, he joined the prestigious French label Rochas as creative director. N°21 is a good foil to Rochas, where the emphasis is on accessibility.
“We need something more real and less excessive,” says Dell’Acqua of the current state of fashion. “I want to see real men wearing my clothes around the streets.”
Behaviour, a men’s store in Chelsea, carries the collection. “Since we received it a couple weeks ago,” says owner Chad Vo, “it’s gotten a good deal of attention. When Alessandro ended his namesake collection, a lot of men missed his unique sense of design. His name alone and the DNA of his prior collection will be a driving factor in the success of the brand — not to mention how beautifully made the clothes are.”
Dell’Acqua’s primary focus is on the growth of N°21. The brand opened its first store in Tokyo last month, and Dell’Acqua promises more. “We’re working to find proper locations in the most important cities to open N°21 flagships,” he says, and suggests a focus on New York, Milan, Hong Kong and Paris for the continued expansion.