If you wanted a suit made by Gieves & Hawkes, one of London’s oldest and most venerable tailoring firms, you’d have to fly across the pond and nip into 1 Savile Row.
But this fall they’re launching an exclusive arrangement with Bergdorf Goodman to showcase their autumn and winter 2014 collection, which will include off-the-rack suits as well as bespoke and made-to-measure.
Founded in 1771, the firm’s main clients were members of the British army and navy. Military uniforms need to be both functional and fashionable, cut with comfort as well as precision, a fitted house style that continues today.
“It’s all about going into our archives and bringing it forward,” says Jason Basmajian, the firm’s chief creative officer. “There’s a balance between civilian and military dressing following Gieves’ 240-year history.”
Colors are very English — khaki, olives, grays and tobaccos. Textures are too — tweeds and twills, mottled yarns.
“We’ve also launched outerwear and a leather bag collection,” says Basmajian. “And eyewear, both sunglasses and optical, as well as expanding out of the tailoring world and into sportswear while remaining focused on our sartorial roots at 1 Savile Row.”
“One Savile Row: Gieves & Hawkes: The Invention of the English Gentleman” will be published in October. It documents Gieves’ storied history and draws from its unpublished archives of client ledgers and photographs.