The Eugene O’Neill play “A Touch of the Poet” might best describe the concept woven throughout designer Haider Ackermann’s latest men’s line, introduced in full last spring and snapped up by stars like Kanye West. Expanding on his cult favorite women’s collection, the Paris- and Antwerp-based 43-year old infuses his men’s offerings with the bohemian glamour for which he’s known.
“His take on menswear is original,” says Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president and general merchandise manager for menswear at Barneys New York, which was quick to pick up the line. “He designs from his intellect, his artistry and his emotions.”
Far from the world of traditional suits and ties or the waning hipster urban-outdoorsman aesthetic, Ackermann brings a fresh, gothic sophistication to a homogeneous market. There’s a bit of rocker chic in layered, slightly askew designs like a biker jacket made of linen twill; a black, side-tied kimono shirt; or the frayed silk foulards that should be worn with a sense of nonchalance (Ackermann said his spring 2015 collection was inspired by the Rolling Stones’ Keith Richards, and it shows).
There’s a confident swagger in the rich, floral print brocaded fabrics: a linen robe jacket, slouchy wide leg trousers. Ackermann’s exaggerated, voluminous shapes and sumptuous textiles suggest an expressive, artistic type. “It’s eccentric in a luxe way,” says Kalenderian. Yet there are plenty of wearable items. Take a styling tip from super-fan West, who pairs key pieces like a black velvet sweatshirt or a diamond-printed jacquard blazer with jeans and sturdy boots for a less conspicuous statement.
Crew credits: Photographer: Luzena Adams, Stylist: Angela Kelley, Groomer: Jas Lee for V by Vaugh @ Jump, Model: Kevin Sampaio/Wilhelmina