When Peter Copping was pressed into early service as creative director after Oscar de la Renta’s untimely death last October, one of the most talked-about transitions in fashion turned out to be drama-free.
Or rather, the low-key Oxford-born designer reserved the drama for the runway, earning praise from both retailers and critics for his spirited debut collection.
Standout dresses — there wasn’t a single pair of pants on his fall runway — included a black and gold brocade cocktail dress that actress Amanda Seyfried wore to the Tony Awards in June, and an embroidered blue faille strapless gown that Karlie Kloss flaunted at the Cannes Film Festival.
“I wanted the clothes to seem light and airy, even when they’re for winter,” Copping — a careful listener whose thoughtful manner belies a quick sense of humor — tells Alexa.
De la Renta handpicked the designer as his successor, with the intention of working side by side for several seasons before passing the torch. Sadly, that collaboration was not to be, but Copping has the benefit of de la Renta’s blessing.
“We did share a common aesthetic,” says Copping, an interior design aficionado whose 15th century house in Normandy was showcased in the September issue of Architectural Digest.
“I’ve always designed very sophisticated, quite refined clothes. Having worked in Paris for over 20 years, I was bringing a lot of experience with me,” he explains, referring to the five years he spent as creative director at Nina Ricci, a long stint at Louis Vuitton under Marc Jacobs and a few years at Sonia Rykiel. “I think he knew that [the collection] would be in safe hands.”
Which doesn’t mean, of course, that Copping is playing it completely safe. He’s embedding the brand with his own imprint: plenty of short, flippy skirts, lace halterneck bodices and an open back ball gown.
In April, he showed graceful long, short and two-in-one convertible wedding dresses during bridal fashion week. A month later, his brilliantly colored and lavishly embroidered resort line was hailed as more proof of his craft and flair. Last night at the Prince George Ballroom, he presented spring 2016, his fourth collection.
Ten months into his new job, Copping, 49, has adjusted to his frenetic adopted city. He lives in an antiques-filled Greenwich Village brownstone apartment with his husband, French floral designer Rambert Rigaud. They enjoy dining out at favorites like Sant Ambroeus, EN Japanese Brasserie and Upland and exploring new neighborhoods.
Copping is also crisscrossing the country, meeting customers at trunk shows and parties. The ladies have told him they are pleased to see so much Oscar daywear (one of his focuses) and dresses with sleeves.
“Peter, like Oscar, ultimately embraces feminine codes,” says Linda Fargo, Bergdorf Goodman’s style guru. “Essentially his work is that of a romanticist.
“Don’t be mistaken, though; there’s definitely a fresh voice in the house, perhaps a more modern take on the ODLR DNA, something that’s already speaking to the next generation, with all due respect.”
The message has already been received by millennials like Diane Kruger, who partied at Cannes in a flirty black lace dress from the fall line. She, of course, Instagrammed her thanks.
Peter Copping: In his own words
Alexa: Most flattering shoes for a woman?
Peter Copping: 3.5-inch stilettos.
Fashion Week obsession?
PC: Getting the models we want.
Favorite fall color combo?
PC: Bordeaux with chartreuse.
Favorite evening-dress style?
PC: One that doesn’t dominate the woman.
Go-to Fashion Week adjective?
PC: Cool.
Favorite recent destination?
PC: San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.
Every well dressed woman should own…?
PC: A little black dress.