Last September, Hedi Slimane unveiled his first collection for Celine — after dropping the accent from the house’s name — and became the talk of Paris Fashion Week.
His debut consisted primarily of micro-mini embellished frocks (some polka dotted, some topped with bows), rocker-inspired boots and sharply tailored suits, all very much in line with Hedi’s signature party-girl aesthetic.
It was the antithesis of prior creative director Phoebe Philo — worshipped for her chic, minimalist threads — and so the industry rebelled against Hedi’s rebellion by creating a hashtag (#oldceline) and an Instagram account bearing the same name. It quickly racked up hundreds of thousands of followers.
But what is “old Céline,” exactly?
It depends on which generation you ask.
For the current crop of editors and style stars, it’s most likely Philo’s vision. But for those with longer memories, the idea of “old Céline” looks very much in line with the collection Slimane showed on Friday night.
The first model floated down to the runway from the ceiling in a large glass box.
Lights flashed around her, making it hard to tell exactly what she was wearing, but as soon as her tall leather boots touched the catwalk, it was obvious that Slimane was looking back to the ‘70s.
That meant a slightly boxy, sharp-shouldered blazer, a silky neck tie and aviator glasses.
Slimane also explored the decade via skirt suiting, full-length camel coats styled with jeans and tall boots, and a gold flowy, caped dress. Most looks were cinched with structured belts, and the only flashes of sequins appeared on a long-sleeve cardigan and a pair of flowy culottes.
In short: The collection was wearable, accessible, timeless. And that is très chic, with an accent.